I now find myself in Seattle!
No, I did not chicken out and decide to come home early. Nor did I run out of money. I also did not contract a strange disease. And I didn’t get sick of traveling. I came home to see Alan graduate from Medical School – yay! – to recharge my batteries, and use some off-time to plan my last 5 months on the road.
Bactrack to Goa: I spent a luxurious week lying around on a deserted beach on the Indian Sea. Palolem beach was in it’s last week of tourist season, ready to shut down before the monsoons descended. This white sand beach was lined with coco-huts and small bars, catering to backpackers and retirees who visit for the cheap accommodations and fresh caught seafood.
It was tranquil and quiet, but with just enough visitors to keep things interesting. The small concrete “hut” I snagged for $7 a night was right next to a bar called the Round Cube… they played chilled-out lounge electro and offered $2 cocktails from 5-9 every day. They also had a few chaise lounges out front for sunbathing, which I pretty much lived on all week. Not much happened, which was exactly what I wanted, but here are a few highlights:
- The people I met in Palolem Beach, both working the Cube and visiting the area, were awesome. It was like I had my own little “Cheers,” everyone was so friendly and very interesting to chat with. John Thomas McCann, in particular, was a hoot: a giant old Scottsman who could be mistaken for a shaven Fat Bastard any day of the week (Fat Bastard being one of Dr. Evil’s henchman in Austin Powers 2). Then there was Tony, an old Canadian of British descent who still lives with his Ex-wife and teenage kids, and whose parents are of Royal descent.
- In my morning walks on the beach I always found something interesting. One day the fisherman pulled their nets in and left behind a ton of sea Fauna lying at the waterline. There were Hermit crabs, starfish, crabs, stingrays and even a giant eel one day. The eel was about 6 feet long! Unfortunately he had been clubbed in the head by the time I arrived, but it was still quite a site.
-One day I rented a scooter and drove around the area, visiting a few of the other beaches. I was accompanied by an old hippie retiree from London who smoked hand rolled hash joints and spouted off great diatribes about the meaning of life, as he sees it. According to him, we’re all fucked. I had to agree with him after seeing the tar balls that had washed up on the pristine beach the night before…
-The tar balls!!! OMG!!! TAR BALLS! On the beach. In India. Tar. Sticky, black shiny balls of tar. TAR??? Okay, now that I’ve caught my breath, apparently the oil tankers that cross the seas between the middle east and India stop 100 miles offshore and clean out their cargo bays. The debris washes up on the beach the next morning. Many of the locals had never seen this before. And it came about a month into the Gulf of Mexico incident… John was right: We’re all fucked.
- Ahem. Okay, the next day I had Shark for dinner. Freshly caught from the tar-ball-laden sea. It was okay, very salty, but it was Shark for heaven’s sake! Shark! Yet another delicacy to add to my growing list of unusual food sampled in my travels. I may get cancer from the possibly tar-contaminated meat, but I’m fucked anyway, so it’s all good.
- I got a seriously lovely tan. I generally avoid basking in full sun, but I decided that just this one summer, I will make up for all the Vitamin D I’ve missed since living in Portland. I at least kept a hat on and SPF 3000 on my face. I have to say, I’m feelin’ pretty darn sexy with my golden sun-kissed tan from Goa. Maybe I’ll get skin cancer someday, but I’m fucked anyway, so what does it matter? 
Okay, I know this is long, but there’s so much to say! Almost done, but I promise it’s worth the time to keep reading.
On the day of my departure from Goa, I got many warm goodbyes from all of my new friends, and everyone implored me to come back next year. I didn’t make any promises, but I know I will go back someday. There was just something magical about Palolem Beach… it wasn’t the prettiest I’ve ever been to nor did it have much in the way of activities or amenities, but the people were positively charming, inspiring, and made me feel so at home there. It made up for the fact that we’re all fucked lol
That night I was booked on an Air-conditioned Sleeper bus destined for Bombay (Mumbai if you’re Indian). I had no idea what I was in for. As I dropped my bag at the bus’ luggage hold, I bumped into another American. Looking around, I noticed we were the only white people boarding… Dan and I started chatting a bit – I found out he was from Florida and was on a break from being stationed with the Navy in Afghanistan for the past 18 months. The bus had one long aisle down the middle with two levels of double-size sleepers. We soon discovered we were sharing a bed! I had no idea the sleepers were “shared,” but the bus was full, Dan seemed okay, and I was exhausted. We got to know each other a bit, and then laid down after an hour or so to try and get some shut-eye. First off, the A/C was a small vent pointed right at my chest, blowing air that felt like wind coming off a polar ice cap. Second, the half of bed I had was about 2 feet wide. I pretty much had to lie stretched out to avoid hanging over Dan’s side. The bus driver was going like an old wooden roller coaster, but without the giant hills. It was wobbling and swerving so much I never thought I’d be able to sleep. But what really kept me up was the woman in the sleeper across the aisle from ours who was vomiting with motion sickness for most of the night. Needless to say, her predicament made me feel immensely appreciative and grateful for my own situation. It was a very restless night for me (and I think for Dan too), but we made it to Bombay alive.
I spent about 12 hours in Bombay before I had to head home. I caught a glimpse of the beach there, which was packed with Indians swimming and hanging out on the sand. One interesting thing to note: The women wear their Saris in the water to swim, but the men wear as little as possible – the skimpiest speedos I’ve ever seen! It was SO weird. Anyway, I also took in a Bollywood Movie called Kites, which was a fantastic poor-boy-meets-rich-engaged-girl story set in Vegas. I was disappointed though, because the film was devoid of musical numbers which Bollywood is so famous for.
I flew 9 hours to Frankfurt and I got upgraded to Business Class at the last minute! So I slept like a baby, then had a 6-hour layover before getting on a plane to LAX, where my parents picked me up. I stayed with them in Moreno Valley for a few days then flew to Seattle, where Alan’s parents were waiting to help me surprise the hell out of him. His Dad met me at the entrance of his building, where they had been staying in a suite on the bottom floor. Alan was hanging out with them in their suite and I just walked in. Alan looked up and just stared. It was hilarious. Then he made this like, Ah? sound, and finally came over to give me a big hug and a kiss. So, he had no idea I was coming, and was completely in shock. After it wore off though, we had a wonderful reunion, and we love each other more than ever. Isn’t that sweet?
Anyway, I’m not back for good. I’ll make a stop in Portland to visit friends before driving with Alan to Tucson… then I head out for Egypt on the 22nd to finish the last 5 months of my world tour, in Europe.
BTW, we may all be fucked, but it’s all the more reason to live life like there’s no tomorrow 
Posted 3 months ago. 2 comments
I just landed in Goa after a crazy journey to Delhi airport involving a 20-minute walk with my giant backpack, 2 bus rides, a tuk-tuk ride and a taxi ride. All in the 103-degree heat 
I saved 200 rupees, or $4. How silly of me to decline the hostel taxi! But it was a great adventure…
Delhi was totally awesome! I was in this hostel where they were having a party for someone’s birthday. There was free dinner, beer, cake, and ice cream, and they brought out a hookah later. All these skeezy Indian guys were hanging out trying to impress the girls with their dance moves. It was hilarious! I was up til 4am.
And then I had to get up at 5 for my tour to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. I hired a personal air-conditioned taxi for the three-hour ride, where I also saw the enormous Agra fort, and Sikhandra, another tomb in which some king was buried. There are no cars allowed near the Taj, so my driver had to park in a nearby lot, then I hopped on a horse-drawn rickshaw for the 20-minute ride to the entrance of the grounds. So fun!
The Taj was mind-blowing. I never realized how enormous it was. If anyone is not familiar, it’s a famous monument/tomb that one of the kings built for his favorite wife (out of three). Some say it’s the ultimate monument to love. I got a little misty-eyed when i crossed that threshold where i could just see it in it’s entirety, looming beyond the immense gardens. Awwww…
After so many hours at tourist spots though, I was exhausted. There are so many scam artists everywhere trying to hustle you – the best is the one where they walk up and tell you they’re a volunteer giving information on the building, they follow you around telling you about the historical significance and cool details about who built it and whatnot. Then at the end they ask you for money. I don’t really have a problem tipping for that sort of thing, but I was running out of small bills. So I told this one guy when he approached me that I didn’t have any cash left and did not want a tour, but he insisted it was free and followed me around. I told him several times after that I was not going to give him money but he kept on. Finally at the end of a very paltry tour, he held out his hand. I screamed at him, “no wonder everyone hates India, because you’re all a bunch of thieves!” and I ran out of the building. Kids asking for money when they look perfectly clean and dressed. I gave one kid the biscuits I kept in my pack as a snack, then he asked me for money and I told him no in Hindi. That little sh!t followed me for 3 blocks, tugging on my clothes and asking for rupees. I finally turned and shoved him so hard he fell on the ground! I felt like a walking ATM machine… Finally, I went up to a cart for a bottle of water and the man wanted triple what I knew it was worth, and wouldn’t bargain down. I walked to three different ones and they all pulled the same crap on me. Then there are the sellers of crap I don’t want-they follow you around, sticking their stuff in your face and I got so fed up, I was hating India pretty bad.
And people, especially men, stare at me like crazy! But a few Indians actually asked to take a photo with me. I felt like a celebrity.
But one of the coolest things was the taxi ride. Omg talk about hair-raising automobile operations. He manouvered that car in and out of traffic like a driver in the Indy 500. Even while i was gripping my seat in terror, I was seriously impressed. Just kidding. I yelped a couple of times when a vehicle pulled suddenly in front of us and the driver slammed on the brakes.
The heat in Delhi was the worst I’ve ever felt – 115 degrees fahrenheit. The A/C in the hostel sucked, but I survived and now I’m on the coast where it’s still warm, but there’s a nice breeze. It’s quite beautiful. Of course this view couldn’t come without a price.
The two times I’ve rolled into a town without hotel reservations I’ve ben stuck walking the city from place to place, begging for a room. This was the third such occasion. I don’t know how so many other trvavelers have such luck, but I’ve decided to play on the side of caution from now on, and at least have the first night booked so if I don’t like it I can try to move. The place I found was only $7 per night but by the looks of it, the bungalow I’m in probably cost less than that to built. There aren’t any rats and the ‘door’ has a padlock on it, butits probably the most dodgy joint I’ve ever stayed in lol. Yes, worse than the capsule hotel from Tokyo!!!
But if I get my way I’ll be spending all day on the beach, which is 5 steps from my door, or in the little bar next door that has 2-for-1 drinks from 5-9. Whoo-hoo!
Posted 3 months, 2 weeks ago. Add a comment
Or forgotten somewhere:
Jacket (left at hostel once, got it back, then lost it at a festival)
Earplugs
Eye mask
Book
Carrots (in hostel)
Sake & an energy drink (in hostel fridge)
Headlamp
Slippers
A sock (in laundry)
Shower scrubby puff
3 pairs of sunglasses (good thing I buy the cheap ones)
Beanie
Gloves
2 maps
My mind
Posted 5 months, 1 week ago. Add a comment
I know it’s so great and wonderful and I’m SO lucky to be able to do this trip. I have planned for months, looked forward to seeing new cultures and having new adventures. I knew it would be challenging at times, and that it might make me a better person. But…
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Posted 5 months, 2 weeks ago. 7 comments
Alan and I parted ways today, he’s headed back to the states to begin his medical residency and I’m on my way to Tokyo for more adventures. Needless to say it’s been 8 hours and I miss him already!
You never realize the struggles you will face during an extended vacation with your mate. <--------------more------------>As an experienced party to such trips, I’ve found that it helps to set realistic expectations going into it, whether you’re traveling for 2 weeks or two months. To be attached to the same person for 24 hours a day requires a tremendous amount of patience, self-awareness and communication. One might say this is a given for all relationships, every day, but while traveling the it applies doubly so. You must both be able to set boundaries when you feel cramped, and to step back and acknowledge when it’s time for a break. I think if both parties are capable of that, it’s a wonderfully enriching adventure and allows you both to learn things about each other you wouldn’t have otherwise.
Anyway I’m surely the last person qualified to give relationship advice, but the things above have made for the best vacations and experiences of my life, especially this most recent one.
To Alan, I love you more than ever, and I look forward being in your arms again!
Posted 6 months, 1 week ago. 1 comment
Alan and Me, about to drop 420 meters over a canyon.
After our incredibly terrifying adventure on the Nevis Arc (canyon swing), we couldn’t help but feed the need with a 4WD through the mountains, a jet boat ride, and a whitewater rafting trip on the Skippers Canyon.
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Posted 7 months, 1 week ago. Add a comment
Okay, this post was supposed to go up almost a week ago, but I’ve had limited access to internet!
We picked up our first hitchhiker!!!
Alan and Hila at the Clay Cliffs
Hila is from Israel and has been traveling for 2 months in New Zealand; we picked her up in Oamaru before our four-hour drive to Queenstown. The countryside in this area is simply breathtaking. The highway is surrounded by looming mountains, lush green fauna and rambling rivers. We made a brief stop at some Maori Rock paintings, and hiked through brush to see the Clay Cliffs. These rock formations were carved out of the landscape by two million years of erosion on layers of silt and gravel, that were exposed along the active Osler fault line.
We dropped off Hila in Omarama and then stopped in a little area called Cromwell to taste some local wines.
Posted 7 months, 1 week ago. Add a comment
I’m pulling music, movies, bookmarks, preferences, and other delightful goodies from my main computer to my teensy-weensy HP Mini. It’s been deliciously hacked with Mac OS X by a certain to-be-unnamed computer guru.
First stop: Fiji. I’ve heard it’s monsoon season right now, and there’s civil unrest near the capital. Fortunately, the capital is far north of our destination. The weather reports say rain, but at least it will be in the 80’s. Humidity here we come!
Anybody out there been to Fiji? Got any recommendations?
Posted 7 months, 3 weeks ago. 1 comment
So there’s only two weeks to go before I leave and Allen and I are freakishly trying to gather our things together. He’s getting ready to embark on more interviews for School, and the hustle continues for me back home. I’ve got 1 million things on my to-do list still. For example, I must research international banks for the lowest transaction fees while I’m abroad, I have to get some visas still, I need to make photocopies of my passport and many other documents, and organize all of my tickets and itinerary into special envelopes. Then there’s the test pack to make sure all of my stuff will fit into the small 45 L backpack I’ve purchased. It’s no easy task, believe me, and I am very worried.
I anticipate that this next two weeks will probably be the most stressful of my life or something close to that, but I’m excited and I know that all in all, if things don’t get done, I’ll probably survive.
FYI I will be creating most of my blog posts with an iphone app on the called Dragon. It’s a dictation software that translates what I say into text. So if these things don’t read as well-written as you know I can normally write, that’s why. It’s very strange talking my thoughts into a little device and then trying to edit them into something readable. But a laptop wouldn’t fit in my bag…
Posted 8 months, 1 week ago. Add a comment
After battling with a back injury for the past couple of months, I finally came to the conclusion that physical therapy wasn’t quite working. Having friends who swear by acupuncture, I took a chance and made an appointment with an acupuncture clinic that’s covered by my insurance.
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Posted 8 months, 1 week ago. 2 comments